Southern India Travels

Living at home, living in Canada, thinking about India

2005-06-19T15:25:00.000-07:00

So if you check dates and for some reason are still checking my blog, you'll see that I've been home close to a month. But I feel like leaving my last blog entry at Sangam was not quite the full circle. So here's one more to put everything so far perhaps, into perspective.

So, coming home wasn't all that shocking. I guess I've done it enough times, from all sorts of places, developing countries included that you know how things are. But as time goes by you realize a few things....

First of all I've realized that although perhaps things seem the same as when you left, and in many ways, you go back to the same life you had before (which I'm quite enjoying btw..all that family and friends and clean air!)...there is something that has changed, on the periphery perhaps.

For me, its the sum of all the little bits of knowledge and experience I've been aquiring. I don't think its something that I can quite describe in words yet, but it comes across as emotion when I see/hear things here. Crazy things, like finding myself bursting into tears over the news, or feeling intensely sorry for the really drunk man stumbling down the bikepath asking "which way to uptown?" Or feeling stifled and alone and out of sorts when in a mall and I'm staring at an aspect of the things that Canadians value....and don't say that it isn't true.

Perhaps you can attribute to Lariam, which I'm glad to say I'm finally off, or genetics..but I think its something more than that. I think its a new level of awareness...a sum of all the parts. Its from being there, and from getting feelings of what its like for different people in so many different situations. And from realizing all the complications and layers to many of the situations whether personal or global or somewhere in between. I'm not going to wish it away in any way because hopefully it will help direct me to wherever I'm going next in life. And besides, without some change, I'd just be back where I started...

So, signing off from my India adventures and looking forward to the next ones, perhaps a little closer to home.

Full circle--One home to another

2005-05-12T06:21:00.000-07:00

Here I am. Back at Sangam, at the journey's end. Home. Or on my way home. Or both. I think.

Sooo glad to be back at Sangam where there is calm and peace, and I know and understand at least half of Pune and what's going on. Where I can catch up on friends, relax and do the dreaded thing...try and fit 7.5 months worth of stuff into 2 suitcases. You'd think I of all people could do such a thing, but even I have materialist tendancies (everything is soooo cheap here) Needless to say, perhaps, Joanne and I spent all day shopping. :/ Anyway, we're relaxing here now but off to Mumbai for 2 days before the flight out.

I've had an absolutely wonderful time, both living and the travelling. But, India is kinda like a nail file...it just keeps rubbing off bits of my nerves and shaping me....but my nails aren't growing back so fast. So its time. And I'm looking forward to coming home. I miss everyone. You've all been so great at emails and mail and it means so much so far away from family. I probably wouldn't be so head-strong and keen to "do" things if you all weren't there, just supporting me. Thank you!

So, this, sparing a few adventures in Mumbai, Singapore and Vancouver, is really the end of this trip. But I know I will be back...maybe with some of you, if you're up for it :)

"The perfect journey is circular. The joy of departure and the joy of return" :)))

Mettlawadi--Isaac's Village

2005-05-08T15:14:00.000-07:00

We've just arrived back from spending 24hrs in the village that my friend Isaac grew up in. It was both a welcome relief from all the overwhelming cities we've stayed in, and a thought-provoking experience. But provided the next few days go well, I will leave India on a good note. India is like that- you hate it and you love it--you can't stand it but you know you'll be back. Its all extremes; nothing in between.

So our journey to the village started at the bus stand in Mysore where we met Isaac and one of his brothers, Laurence. Isaac is the youngest child in a family of 7 (I think!). I met him in Pune as he is studying at the Papal Seminary to be a priest. We met him earlier on this trip in Hampi if you remember :)

So we left Mysore and took a 1.5hr bus ride to a town somewhere--don't ask where! Then we stood around in the sun, and caught another bus for an hour. There we got off at the bus stop and met another of his brother's John bandmaster. While we waited for the bus a crowd, as usual, of gawkers grew around us--definately not a common site to see a group of foreign women. Pretty exciting. :P From there we took a 3rd bus to the village.

The village was a few 1000 people with a rations store, a school and a few shops-surrounded by farms and plantations, etc. We went to his house and met his sister-in-law and his parents, his 2 nephews and his one niece, Shilpanrani--10 years old--who quickly attached herself to us for the rest of the stay.

Mettlawadi, the village--is a border town between the states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. Oficially it is in Tamil Nadu, but they speak Kannada--the language of Karnataka--and receive some assistance from Karnataka-or should-because they are in a really remote place in Tamil Nadu.

So we walked around for awhile...saw the one phone booth where I had to call to reach Isaac (the only one in the village)--the fields and the major intersections--one which used to have a security post on it to stop smugglers from smuggling saffron--the most expensive spice in the world.

And it was quiet and peaceful and beautiful...and for the first time in awhile I went a whole day without being angry at someone. Shocking!

One thing that disturbed us though, was the level of domestic violence--in both cases the husband went off and got drunk and then came back to beat his wife--in full view of anyone. Now, alcohol is prohibited in that district in Tamil Nadu...however, it isn't 3 miles away in Karnataka. So men go to the next state and then come back. Women don't drink. There are laws written in the Indian constitution prohibiting abus but in some places the power and beliefs of the people, along with the corruption of the police---the most corrupt part of the system in my opinion--makes it pretty unreasonable that anything ever gets "done" about it. So sad.

Inside Isaac's home however, was wonderful, and we were treated like royalty. As is common when staying with a famil--they give you everything they have--the best food, the best beds and anything else you might need--be it tp, or a chair to sit on...And I've learnt better than to protest--it would only be an insult. Hard because you are expected to eat your fill, yet you know you're eating part of the family's monthly rations. It really drives home the message that its not really what you have that matters, but what you have to give. I am overwhelmed by their generocity.

So we spent our one day wandering, attracting attention and hoards of children, playing guitar and listening to John play the clarinet. The next morning we attended mass in Kannada...Isaac spoke and played the drums for the songs.

And when it was time to leave, we sat near the bus stop talking, watching a friend sort lentils and a man climb a palm and harvest coconuts. And then the next thing we knew some of those coconuts were in our hands and being drunk...and then broken for us to eat. Yum! Doesn't get any better than that.

Wonderful. Another place where I will leave a portion of my heart.

Blue Mountain Railway to Ooty

2005-05-02T04:46:00.000-07:00

Every seen the film "A passage to India"? Well this morning we got up at 4am to catch the train used in this film. It goes about 10km/hr and climbs almost 2000m going through many many tunnels and over many bridges. A gorgeous ride and now we're in nice and cool (25°C) Ooty an old British hill station.

And you know what? Sometimes it actually pays to be white and female!! Despite all the drawbacks along the way today we got a special coach just for the foreigners and didn't have to wait for the next train or stand crammed for 4.5hrs on either of them! That's one good thing...you're so high on the caste you can get away with anything sometimes! I don't know if its worth it...being high up, or living in a society where divisions are so prominant....I am beginning to sympathize with the aristocracy....always treated with the same stereotype, always stared at, always seen as something not quite anyone else...I think I much prefer being a boring normal person and living in a society that attempts to make everyone equal...but maybe that's my cultural bias? who knows? Anyway, at least being different and exciting has its perks.

contemplation

2005-05-01T13:30:00.000-07:00

Today I contemplated the following things while city on a long train ride:

What makes a countries people open-minded and culturally aware? Is it simply the culture? Is it religion? Is it education? What do you think?

And...if you could measure open-mindedness as a percentage of the population, which countries would come out on top....why? What does this say about the country?

Living the exotic India dream

2005-04-29T20:01:00.000-07:00

The last week here in Kerala, I'd have to say, has been something of a tourist dream come true in many ways. I wouldn't call myself a tourist but I think if I were one, I would be spending the last few days in paradice.

It started in Kochi...we went to the old Portugese area of town. We walked around, saw the sun setting between the old Chinese fishing nets and then went to see the traditional Kathakali dance of Kerala...I don't know how to describe it except imagine elaborately painted faces, large dresses and costumes that stick out far, and lots of sounds and hand gestures (there's not talking). And awesome drumming and singing!

Then, we headed for the hills to the tea plantations of Munnar. Ever see tea plantations? Well they're pretty cool...green pillows on steep slopes. There we stayed in a small house and went cycling. At night the tea hills were dotted with fireflies...and the sounds we could here for once...silence and the chirrping of frogs...ah!

Then we moved on to Kumily/Thekkadi...another town in the hills. The Cardamon hills to be exact...Cardamon is apprently quite picky about where it grows...so lots of spices everywhere...growing, harvesting, eating...mmmm. Talk about "land of spice" stereotype. Great stuff.

And at this place there is a large nature reserve...for the 40 or so tigers left in India. But we had a very "bang for your buck" experience. We saw several herds of wild elephants, wild boar, bison herds, deer herds, foxes, otter, turtles...etc. all in a few hours on a boat. We also went hiking but all we really saw on that trip was the infamous forest leech.....and unfortunately I got my first leech-sucking experience. ugh! nasty little buggers!

Anyway, we had a few more peaceful nights there and are not back on the coast. Today we took a local boat up the small canals here going past small villages, shrimp farms and coconut plantations...definitely also a tourists' dream! Tomorrow and 8hr cruise to Alleppy. Yep "life is but a dream" :)

A new side of me

2005-04-26T16:45:00.000-07:00

Well Aurora just summed India to me in this well thought-out phrase:

India is like your family: you'll always love them, unconditionally. But boy! can they push ALL of your buttons!

India is like that in so many ways...I've fallen in love with so many parts of it, and I'm sure I'll get home and miss it incredibly...but I've had every aspect of my personality tested here. And I've found so many new parts and new weaknesses that I never knew.

I'll tell you all the stories in detail when I get back. But lets me just ask you this: Have you ever seen me soooo angry, so upset that I've screamed? Or that I've turned and given you an angry lecture? Well I can name a very few that have: Adria, my parents.....this may ring a bell to you. But never have I been so angry and felt so powerless that I have had to turn to complete strangers and yell...and scream... and give lectures on being rude....or been so incredibly blunt you probably wouldn't recognize me... "Um excuse me, but we don't want you here...so please go.. GO! Get ^&*^(ING LOST!, etc." And when they don't?...and just pretend not to hear you? Well, India's pushing as hard as she can?

And I'm sorry if that makes me violent. And I'm sorry if it makes me biased against men and towards women. And I'm sorry it makes me selfish and moody. And I'm sorry if it makes me soooo homesick all I want is to wake up to peace and quiet and fresh bread and cheese and soymilk and not have to listen to "he hi hello...hey miss" one more time!

But you know what? I'm learning how to deal with these things...and perhaps trying to figure out how to constructively manage disagreements and anger is one of the best gifts this country may be giving me. Which button's next?

"Napkin Madam! This is Kerala"

2005-04-22T02:25:00.000-07:00

Says the waitor to me in a slightly sketchy fast food joint in Kochi. Implying, I think, that unlike the rest of India, Kerala is better--well, at least different. And that wiping one's hands and one's nose on the same napkin is just not appropriate. But apparently taking off your lungi (male skirt) in public and re-wrapping it is just a-ok. Alright, I'll live with that.

Kerala, however, is different from all the other states I've been in so far. Namedly...it rains A LOT here...everyday, so its very very green. And despite being the most densely populated state, it seems quieter and slightly cleaner than other places. More educated to boasting 100% literacy in some regions...and the societal structure is a matriarchy. Which astounds me as after 9pm all we see are hoards and gaggles and packs of men...everywhere. Luckily we're a possy of females! (or perhaps unluckily?)

Anyway, we've got a couple more weeks here and now that we've seen the pooram, we're off to some of the inland areas to ride bikes and hike and relax in the green! ah, green! :)))))))))

Sleeping in a train station.

2005-04-21T10:22:00.000-07:00

Yeah, that pretty much sums it up. That's what we did...on the benches with all the other homeless men, women and children. There was no where else for us to go. Then we also slept on the train, which was much better...less cockroaches and rats.

Never done that before!

NB--not exactly our choice but our train just decided to not stop at our station and so we continued an hour past our hotel....and couldn't catch any trains back until 5:45am!

Pooram Festival, Thrissur

2005-04-20T14:54:00.000-07:00

Today we went to the Pooram Festival. Wow, we sure saw a lot of elephants...all elaborately dressed.

And then it rained, thundered and lighninged. And then the sun shone. Then it rained and thundered so hard that it shorted out the lights in the tent we were hiding in because of leakage into the tent! So we ran away to another tent and ate icecream while it continue to pour.

Then we went into tents in the "fair" part of the festival...and saw things like the history of India, Indian Railways, plants. And dead babies in jars. Yes, babies. At a fair. I don't know what to think of that. I am not sure what planet I am on. But there they were.

Then I went on the scariesty ferris-wheel EVER! I was scared! Luckily we didn't see any bolts falling off...but we were treated to many jeers from all the other passengers (all Indian and male).

Then we got off and noticed that 98% of the crowd were men...no, make that 99%...no more than that. So, we decided it may be time to go home. Yep. Just another ordinary day of travelling I guess.

Little cultural misinterpretations

2005-04-14T14:13:00.000-07:00

Today we are in Madurai...smack dab in the middle of Tamil Nadu. A fairly decent town with a very big elaborate temple (Meenakshi Temple). But I don't want to talk about temples...rather, what we've been spending most of our time thinking about: cultural harrassment. By this I mean simple little cultural differences (and big ones I guess) that can drive you NUTS!!!! when you're not in the right mood....or most of the time, that is.

Some highlights:

"Pepsi madam!" "Monkey madam" "Tsshst! Rickshaw...hey rickshaw madam!" (We are perfecting the disapproving scowl"

"Hey madam...where you from? Canada? Ah...I'm a tailor...tshhh I smoke marajuana grass!" (said in a devilish whisper)

And then there is the restaurant phenomenon...which is a regular occurrence as we eat about 3 meals a day:

US: "Hi...we'd like to order 3 pineapple juices, one aloo paratha, plain rice, channa masala and 2 corn soups and out hot and sour soup"

man: you want mango lassi? indian thali's are really good...south indian thali comes with rice, raita, naan...(cut off)

US: no we'd like 3 pineapple choices, one aloo paratha, plain rice...(cut off)

man: just a minute madam (goes and gets a second man)
2nd man: yes?

US: umm..we'd like 3 pineapple juices...(cut off)

2nd man: 3 pineapple juices...we only have watermelon juice and orange juice.

US: then 3 watermelon juices!!! :/

2nd man: ah, 3 watermelon juices! (turns to original man, mutters something in tamil, gives an enlightened look, laughs and then both men disappear

US: sigh......(we see original man coming by again and we flag him down. He ignores us and we wait 5 minutes and then we see him again and flag him down) "Excuse me, we'd like to order!"

man: "Just a minute madam!" (Goes and gets second man)
2nd man: Yes? (takes out a notebook...halleluiah!)

US: umm, we'd like a stuffed paratha, channa masala, plain rice, 2 corn soups and one hot and sour soup...(roll our eyes and look exasterbated)

2nd man (says amazingly) stuffed paratha, one, channa masala...only one? corn soup, 2 and one hot/sour soup?

US: yes!!!!! (this continues...the men return 2-3 times usually just to double check and we re-order till it all appears)

You may think I'm exaggerating...but I'm not...not in the slightest. maybe not every restaurant is this bad, but most. We're learning that people don't like to listen to you, or take 3-4 repetitions to get it right. We like it especially when people assume they know what you want and where you want to go and blatently don't listen to what you're actually trying to say!!

So much fun!

Looking for Pi (and crepes) in Pondicherry

2005-04-11T19:42:00.000-07:00

We've made it out of Chennai now and are relaxing in the relative peace of Pondicherry...looking over the at the Bay of Bengal thinking about the tsunami, and the book "Life of Pi". So far we've slept in, did laundry, found 2 internet cafes and eaten and walked about. Last night on walking on the breakwater was pretty cool...they block off the streets on the weekends for people to go walking and have cultural displays like traditional dance set up along the way. Pretty nice.

Lots of French people still living here...it only became part of India officially in the 1950's...but don't expect it to be France. Had fries the other day...but still in search of the elusive crepes that I've heard you can get here. But, I think we'll chill here another day before we brave India's transportation system again...

Chaos, cake and cockroaches in Chennai

2005-04-10T18:14:00.000-07:00

Well...yup. That sums up our experience in Chennai---capital of Tamil Nadu, capital of chaos.

We arrived into the station an hour and a half late....hoards of people standing on the platform ready to push on as we were trying to get off! Only our carriage of course. We escape the station to be bombarded by hoards of rickshawallas telling us RS 150 to get to the bus station (our map said it was 10 blocks and should only cost about 20)....we plowed through to find a rickshawalla willing to take us for RS 30 (30 there and 30 back to pretend to tell us the bus station wasn't where we thought it was). We yelled at him and didn't pay and for once they didn't chase after us!

So...an hour later and we're still at the station. Aurora and I go off to find out about how to get to Pondicherry and Joanne guards the bags. We return with bus routes to the bus station and blackforest cake! The Chennai highlight. Getting late so we head for a hotel (not an easy task) and spend the night in a decent, but yes, cockroach infested hotel....some of those babies are big!!!!

Anyway, we jammed with Aurora's baby guitar for a while and it was all ok.

Hospit and Hampi and Hinduism

2005-04-08T06:23:00.000-07:00

We're in Hospit today...near the famous Hampi....kilometers and kilometers of large boulders and dry land with temples of an old Hindu "kingdom" from the 13-15th century. Pretty cool. Also cool because Isaac (a friend of mine from Pune) met us at the station with his brother and Frauke, a girl from Holland who Isaac had met on the bus ride. So we all toured Hampi together.

The first day we headed on early...local bus and then rented bicycles and cycled between temple and bath house and elephant sheds, etc. It must have reached 40°C that day! Oooh water is so good cold! We had 12 masala dosai for lunch....mmm (well 6 people come on!)

Then we cycled onwards to another few awesome structures...including a temple that had many small pillars that could be hit and played musically! Passed out in the dark crevices of these temples awhile...then sat at the almost clean-like river for a good while recovering.

Then we cycled back as the sun set...climbing up to above an active temple to watch the sun set with the monkeys....temple music, gorgeous landscape, good friends and a setting sun...absolute heaven! Some people up there drinking beer...but us...um we ate carrots! hehe. Good times.

3$ paradise if you don't fall through the floor!

2005-04-05T03:46:00.000-07:00

Well, today we just came back from the beaches of Goa....Palolem beach to be exact. Definitely what most of you would consider paradice....a large bay with palm trees and lots of sand...not too many people and touts and stray dogs and warm sunny days. There was unlimited places to eat for only a buck or two, great fresh juices and dals and oooh so much more.

And so hot...both the air and the sun. Very nice. Aurora and I walked/waded to an island and attempted to see dolphins but ended up seeing a family of monkeys jumping through the trees instead. Ah.

And yes, we stayed in a cocohut...a small stilted place with some very steep stairs and a piece of plywood as the floor...or two actually because we could see the sand below through the crack! Eeeh. A double bed for 3 people in this sticky heat. And don't toss and turn too much...or maybe you will really fall through! But, come on...for $3 for 3 people with a 2 step walk to the beach and a restaurant with good food next door...where could you go wrong! Maybe we were in paradice living backpacker style but it was fabulous..

Leaving Sangam was a bit of a mess...I wasn't ready and I'm still not...my stuff doesn't fit in my suitcase and there were just too many goodbyes and too much to do...so my to-do list when I return to pick up my luggage in May is a little long. But, now I am having a great time, and have time to read and clear my head...something that I haven't done in a while. Yay! And I feel like India is my home in a way so its strange ways are not as stressful as they may have once been. Wonderful. Anyway...off in land to Hampi, Karnataka tomorrow.

Toe Dipping into the Blog World

2005-03-17T08:08:00.000-08:00

Well, one more new media tool to try! Since in a few weeks I'll be travelling for some time I thought I'd enter the blog world! Don't know quite what I'm getting into yet, but at least I know you'll be able to check in to see how my travels south in India go!

My term at Sangam will finish up in a few weeks...and then around March 30th off I go with Joanne and Aurora to adventure to the heat and hopefully tropics of Southern India. Can't wait.

Thanks Joanne for introducing me to this!