We've just arrived back from spending 24hrs in the village that my friend Isaac grew up in. It was both a welcome relief from all the overwhelming cities we've stayed in, and a thought-provoking experience. But provided the next few days go well, I will leave India on a good note. India is like that- you hate it and you love it--you can't stand it but you know you'll be back. Its all extremes; nothing in between.
So our journey to the village started at the bus stand in Mysore where we met Isaac and one of his brothers, Laurence. Isaac is the youngest child in a family of 7 (I think!). I met him in Pune as he is studying at the Papal Seminary to be a priest. We met him earlier on this trip in Hampi if you remember :)
So we left Mysore and took a 1.5hr bus ride to a town somewhere--don't ask where! Then we stood around in the sun, and caught another bus for an hour. There we got off at the bus stop and met another of his brother's John bandmaster. While we waited for the bus a crowd, as usual, of gawkers grew around us--definately not a common site to see a group of foreign women. Pretty exciting. :P From there we took a 3rd bus to the village.
The village was a few 1000 people with a rations store, a school and a few shops-surrounded by farms and plantations, etc. We went to his house and met his sister-in-law and his parents, his 2 nephews and his one niece, Shilpanrani--10 years old--who quickly attached herself to us for the rest of the stay.
Mettlawadi, the village--is a border town between the states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. Oficially it is in Tamil Nadu, but they speak Kannada--the language of Karnataka--and receive some assistance from Karnataka-or should-because they are in a really remote place in Tamil Nadu.
So we walked around for awhile...saw the one phone booth where I had to call to reach Isaac (the only one in the village)--the fields and the major intersections--one which used to have a security post on it to stop smugglers from smuggling saffron--the most expensive spice in the world.
And it was quiet and peaceful and beautiful...and for the first time in awhile I went a whole day without being angry at someone. Shocking!
One thing that disturbed us though, was the level of domestic violence--in both cases the husband went off and got drunk and then came back to beat his wife--in full view of anyone. Now, alcohol is prohibited in that district in Tamil Nadu...however, it isn't 3 miles away in Karnataka. So men go to the next state and then come back. Women don't drink. There are laws written in the Indian constitution prohibiting abus but in some places the power and beliefs of the people, along with the corruption of the police---the most corrupt part of the system in my opinion--makes it pretty unreasonable that anything ever gets "done" about it. So sad.
Inside Isaac's home however, was wonderful, and we were treated like royalty. As is common when staying with a famil--they give you everything they have--the best food, the best beds and anything else you might need--be it tp, or a chair to sit on...And I've learnt better than to protest--it would only be an insult. Hard because you are expected to eat your fill, yet you know you're eating part of the family's monthly rations. It really drives home the message that its not really what you have that matters, but what you have to give. I am overwhelmed by their generocity.
So we spent our one day wandering, attracting attention and hoards of children, playing guitar and listening to John play the clarinet. The next morning we attended mass in Kannada...Isaac spoke and played the drums for the songs.
And when it was time to leave, we sat near the bus stop talking, watching a friend sort lentils and a man climb a palm and harvest coconuts. And then the next thing we knew some of those coconuts were in our hands and being drunk...and then broken for us to eat. Yum! Doesn't get any better than that.
Wonderful. Another place where I will leave a portion of my heart.
